Oxford—Istanbul
2025
Oxford, 16 Jun 25
On 26 June 2025 we will get back on our bikes, 24 years after our last big ride together. Here is why.
The broad plan is:
Oxford to Harwich
Day 1: Destination: Clare College
Oxford, 26 June 2025
A fair wind helps me along the first 150km (only 4850ish to go).
There is a rather nice mutual agreememt between Clare College Cambridge and Oriel College Oxford. They are sibling colleges and both turn 700 in 2026. Part of the sisterliness is that fellows from one can stay at the other.
Day 2
Cambridge, 27 June 2025
Day 3
Old Hunstanton, 28 June 2025
Norfolk with Rob, Steve and Andy
This is an annual get-together, courtesey of Rob Horner, who somehow manages to coordinate us random lot to come every year from various corners of the country to various corners of the country and cycle, walk and chat. It is always a fabulously fun weekend. When I hear that this year would coincide roughly with my departure and happen to be in Norfolk, we simply put the two together. Norfolk is nearly on the way to Istanbul after all.
Rob booked us into a lovely Barn on the edge of Hunstanton Hall. Trouble is, there are quite a few nice building surrounding this Hall and I don’t know which one. So I just set up my camping chair and wait in the sun. A car with a family rolls up and I ask, if this might be the building we stay in for the weekend. In the most polite British manor they point out to me that this is their home, and no, this would not be where we are staying, but would I like a cup of tea? What could be a greater gesture of looking after your fellow human (after a long bike ride in particular) than a cup of tea. It speaks ‘you are among friends’ like little else. After tea and a friendly chat with Dave about cycling and the virtues of steel frames and try another building. One clue would be the presence of a key safe, and I find one behind a little wooden gate leading into a picturesque
Part 2 - with Max
Ely to Harwich, 29 June 2025
In Harwich Max is joining me. He had to stay behind for a very important gig on Friday and takes the train to Harwich with Ali’s bike on board.
Day 5
Hook of Holand to Antwerp, 29 June 2025
On the ferry we meet some other cyclists, including Jack the tennis instructor from Edinburgh who is heading for Eindhoven. We tuck in behind him on hid tri bars and that makes the first 50km rather swift. That is good, because there is a bit of a headwind. When we reach the first ferry we have to wait quite a while for it. Just when we are about to cross some of the others from the Harwich ferry catch up with us. It feels decidedly like “Race across the world”, even though we have totally different destinations and motivations (and really are in no rush at all).
Jack is lovely company and happy to keep the speed manageable for us. When we part, the average speed does definitely drop.
Turns out most food places are shut on a Monday. Just when we thought there would be no food for miles, in the middle of nowhere, a “cherry cafe” appears as if by magic. The sell the most juicy cherries, smoothies, coffee and cake - heaven.
Before we know it, we are within striking distance of Antwerp and all plans to find a camp site are out of the window. It is 36 degrees now and an air conditioned room does seem less like a luxury, but a necessity.
Day 6: Antwerp to Ghent
Ghent, 1 July 2025
The main reason we opted for a hotel was the air-conditioning. Even in the night temperatures didn’t drop below 24°C. Unfortunately the air conditioning didn’t work. All the more reason for a cracking breakfast. Not the overpriced hotel variety, but the joy of supermarket self sufficiency. Yogourt, berries, crossaints, oats – a true feast.
We take it deliberately easy today. It is too hot for big miles. First we amble through Antwerp, discover parks and lakes, stop for a coffee in a market square. All very leasurely.
The route to Ghent is only 60km and mostly along a railway line. Not the most exciting, but still varied enough not to get boring. 15km from Ghent we catch up with a group of about 20 scouts on their way to Brugge and on to nothern France for two weeks of camping. They are cheerful and we can draft behind them for some easy miles.
Ghent is super pretty and busseling with tourists. We part the bikes in one of these underground bike garages under a bridge and explore by foot. Waffles, ice-cream, beer - all is good when it is this hot.
The camp site in Ghent is right next to the rowing lake and also has a swimming beach. If that wasn’t perfect enough, they fire up a pizza oven in the evening. Bliss!
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